sister_raphael: (boobies)


The next update on my Ondřej Benda mirror is here, and just look at that cute squirrel emerging on her arm!!!!

This design has it all! Music, a horse, inappropriate touching and a squirrel! 
sister_raphael: (boobies)

The sorting of stuff I'm not keeping is a bit of a heartbreaking affair, with some things used only for photos and grand parades and practically new.. In particular, a beautiful silk surcote in a soft blue lined with white silk which is unworn by me and entirely hand stitched, almost brought me to tears. It's so pretty. 

I need to toughen up and really try to not let it bother me, but I just want to keep it for myself. 

The requests for my stuff are still coming thick and fast, and just answering messages to say, "No, I said I had nothing else yet" take time to answer, which is slowing the whole process down. I have 4 weeks until our biggest event of the year, so I really need to get stuff done. 

Photo of the blue surcote added so you can appreciate my sadness about it. The colour is just the best shade of blue. And it's silk. Lined with silk.
Just so much silk.
sister_raphael: (deardiary)


It's not a Valentine per se, but combs were often gifts of love, and my 15th century reproduction comb is love themed, so please enjoy another close up of the central carving on one side.

You can see the red and green silk under the bone inlays too!
sister_raphael: thatsfantastic (thatsfantastic)
When you're playing pass the parcel but it's just you and you already know what the prize at the centre is!

It's. My. Ezio. Zanini. Comb! 



I'm so relieved that our postal service didn't break it! So. Relieved!

Here it is in all it's glory and I honestly can't tell you how gorgeous it is!





sister_raphael: (tools)


Whilst there were many wonderful highlights of this year's Abbey Medieval Festival 2025, I'll leave you with the best part of my Bathing & Hygiene Show and Tell... a comparison of reproduction items with the originals.

By looking at the craftsmanship and quality of the originals and comparing them with what we can achieve today, we can learn a lot abour medieval artisans and their abilities.

For instance, in the case of the hinged mirror case, the original is finer and the decorative rockerwork is smaller. The medieval craftsman would have had more years making this item, and more practice at getting the decoration more refined.

The tweezers astonish most modern people because the curled over tips are something we see in today's tweezers, and look very modern. The little lock which still moves on the original demonstrates what it was used for, rather than, say, as a repair to keep the tweezers from breaking. The fact that the original tweezers still open and close shows that the wire wasn't some kind of fix.

The nail cleaner and ear scoop proved more challenging to make for the modern maker, as getting the right teardrop shape on the spoon and the twist of the body proved to be tricky. In the end, the reproduction is a better quality than any other I've seen. Many others settle for a round scoop.

The silver copy of my 14th century French brooch is identical to the original, right down to the number of dots on the frame and thickness of the brooch itself. Previous versions I've seen made are really lovely, but have always been chunkier, which is what modern people expect of a lot of medieval jewellery. It's a high end piece and high quality
 

From left to right: reproductions made by
Gaukler Medieval Wares
 Canada: earscoop/nail cleaner.
Zeitenhandel
 Germany: hinged bi-valve mirror.
Keystone Forge
 Australia: fleur-de-lis brooch.
Gaukler Medieval Wares Canada: tweezers.




sister_raphael: (supercute)


The biggest surprise in the world! I have just been gifted the most amazing thing!

have recreated my 14th century brooch in sterling silver!!!! It's an exact replica of the brooch in my collection (which I had with me in the tent, and was able to show a comparison.) Here are the details about it from my collections website:

Sexfoil Brooch
with fleur-de-lis

BR01


Object
: Ring brooch
Culture: Medieval. 1250-1350
Area of Origin: Normandy, France
Material: Silver, gold gilding
Size: 39.2mm x 2.4mm
Weight: 6.5 grams

Notes: This example is bold, large and silver-gilt. The terminals are fleur shaped having significance with the emblem of the Virgin Mary. A singular row of raised circles is set in between the raised borders around the brooch which is sexfoil shaped. The brooch is intact and in excellent condition. The pin is complete and moves freely.

The brooch was found in France by a metal detector user who lives in Saint-Lo in Normandy, Northern France. It is dated at the same time of Edward the Black Prince and Richard II.



It's for sale at
Mainly Medieval from this weekend at Abbey Medieval Festival and afterwards online or at events they attend in Australia!! Go see Elden and Roxy!

They've got my leaf quatrefoil brooch too!

sister_raphael: (boobies)


For those who asked about the cloak brooches...

on the reverse side of the wool, I have cut two circles and stitched them on, so when I sewed the brooches themselves on the right side, the fabric has a little extra support and it's practically invisible!

The front seams are using the selvedge and don't need hemming and at the top you can see where I made a little loop in the neck reinforcing so if I choose, I can use it with brooches removed.


sister_raphael: (scissors)


A few people have asked what my stitching, the stab and flat fell, look like on the right side. This is what it looks like unwashed and unironed, which tends to make the sewing disappear just that little bit more. It shouldn't be done in a contrasting colour to decorate or pretty it up. Stitches were not a pretty feature.
sister_raphael: (highfive)

I had a little down time last night so I pinned the linen reinforcing strip to the inside of my new, sand coloured surcote, and since the movie wasn't quite finished, I started sewing it in.

I'm using a stab stitch for a firm result, and I did manage to complete both the top and the bottom. The strip itself has the raw ends folded underneath, making it neat and since it goes around, it provides extra stability over the shoulder seams.


sister_raphael: (sewmuchtodo)
I've made some good progress on my next kirtle brought about by needing a bigger size. The back and side gores are finished, and the side seams are partly done.


The neck is cut and a small linen facing strip is pinned in place.


I haven't put the sleeves on yet to allow better access to the neck, but I'll make a start  sometime this week.

So far so good, though, and the fabric is great to work with. Nice and light! 
sister_raphael: (scissors)


The pile of little faux silk buttons is growing and I'm finished!

I need to do the buttonholes now, and then attach them, and that will be another job off my To Do List!

sister_raphael: (scissors)

This is the book I was talking about in an earlier post, written by a lovely lady, Mervi Pasanen from Swan River Crafts who has made some beautiful silk woven bands which I've used for medieval belts. It's still on my to do list, but her instructions seem very clear and easy to follow, so I'm hopeful.

I'm not a knitter or crocheter, but perhaps I might do better at this! My goal is a hat. Then, maybe, socks!

sister_raphael: (underconstruction)

I can't believe I almost gave up on this stripey surcote. Unfinished for years, then in my de-stash clearance but no one else wanted it either. Finished and now an absolute favourite!!

Here I am wearing it at 1300-1600 Collegium 2024 and it was great! it's thick and snuggly but it's also really pretty and looks really nice. This was absolutely a lesson in not giving up on unfinished projects!

Photo: Michelle Barton.


sister_raphael: (casualfriday)

My stripey 14th century surcote was a huge success!

So warm and snuggly and made from a 1950s bed blanket which was over-dyed! It was originally green and white but I over-dyed with a blue.

I've had it in my Work In Progress pile for years and earlier this year had it in my sale pile but when no one was interested, I had a rethink, and decided to finish it. It's not long like my others, and my plan was to make it my muddy days and early morning dewy grass toilet run surcote, and it was perfect for that!

I'm so pleased with this! 
sister_raphael: (supercute)


Inside seam of a rather thick, felted wool thingy? What is it?

It's a striped surcote made out of old blanket wool. I was going to sell this off, but after having it out, I decided maybe I'll finish it off and keep it myself. Anyway, I've been trying to finish the inside seams this week after work, and I'm down to the last seam. Because of the blanket I've made it from, it hasn't got the armholes shaped yet. I needed to see what fabric I had and how high it would go, but you'll get the idea.

sister_raphael: (scissors)


Three lines done a la Romance of Alexander.

I am having the best time using the sticky tape method to get the lines nice and even.
sister_raphael: (scissors)

Best new sewing tip... use tape to space your embroidery without marking the fabric! And it works and it's so easy!! When we support each other and share our tips, everyone wins! This is a wool hood and I'm using wool and couching it on the surface to achieve decorative lines around the edge.
 
I got this idea from my friend Maureen Lillie from The Crowned Heart. She makes a lot of really wonderful medieval hoods herself.


sister_raphael: (sewmuchtodo)

I spent the best part of the next 24 hours sewing like the wind and cut the armholes as low as I dared. I just skimmed the top of the A at the front and hoped it would be good enough.

I've now also stitched the new sides down and added a little gold thread border around the edges of the openings.

When I tried it on, it looked a lot better but just seemed like the A was now no longer hanging straight. I tearfully send photos to my sewing friend, who reminded me that Edith has a different body shape and the hip part will sit out flatter on her in the exact same way that it doesn't on me. I am mollified as it looks really nice now, and only the lining and outer to join at the bottom and the hem to add.

The hem, however, also need beads added in which will be a rather time-consuming job, and I had hoped it would be finished for her to wear to the next event. In the second week of April.
sister_raphael: (scissors)
Finally the new fabric arrived for the sideless surcote for Edith, and I was able to pattern it from the outer and machine the insides. The outer didn't look so great just machines as the seams really do sit differently when sewed down by hand, so I spent a few days doing that, with very pleasing results.

I was able to get up the the museum for a fitting of both that the the kirtle to go under it but sadly, it didn't really go well there. I had been working from a pattern from her last outfit and there had been changes in her shape since then, and even though I had allowed(what I thought) was planty of room to take the garments in, there really wasn't any spare room at all.

To make matters worse, the cut out sides of the surcote were nowhere near low enough, which normally wouldn't present too much of a problem, but of course, the appliqued A's which already had gold metal thread borders and details done were already in place and it was pretty obvious that cutting the sides too low would impact where they were. Also, if I have have put the A's lower, them they would be weirdly low on the garment itself, so that was also an issue.

Nevertheless, I marked out a heap of changes and as low as I dared to go without actually cutting into the A's.

photos to follow.
sister_raphael: (scissors)

Slowly but surely, the Kontusz is taking shape.

Last night I finished the gold piping trim, and started to attach the gold metal thread tassels. I'm in a bit of a quandary as the shade of gold is slightly mismatched to the braid across the chest. I guess it's not terribly noticeable.

I managed the button loops better than I expected, but I still need to stitch them a bit more firmly. All in all, pleased with the progress.


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