sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
The scene:

I have a medieval tablecloth bought many years ago, rather expensively, when I was new to re-enactment and doing late 14th century. This, and I cannot stress this enough, was an expensive purchase.



It was part of a set which also a smaller tablecloth made to a custom size. Also expensive, but I had thought it was to be woven to measure, so was not too upset about it.  When the towels arrived, I was dismayed to discover that it was a bigger cloth cut down one side and hemmed. I could have paid less for it and cut it down myself had I wanted to do that. Another hand woven towel a friend had bought was a plain one with hand woven narrow ware stitched on for the stripes, which is also something we could have done ourselves for less outlay. Anyway, these were still hand woven and expensive.

The current situation:

I'm focussing on earlier 14th century now, and the striped table cloths I see are just that:striped. No griffins or chained cats which are on my big, fancy tablecloth. I've continued to use it out of public eye, but what I really need is another striped tablecloth.

The expensive tablecloth has stripes on it also. You may see where I'm heading with this. 

If I carefully cut the chained cats and griffons off, I could also extract the stripes and sew them on in the right places. Of course, cutting into a magnificent table cloth  is horrifying. I have numerous friends who would happily buy it from me (at a second hand price, of course.) This preserves a table cloth however it means that I do not have a large table cloth. Having a new one woven and posted to my country is an expensive exercise, and I sure don't have the extra for frivolous purchases.

So. 

I've started cutting and stitching and am delighted with how it's going thus far. I can potentially add the 15th century strips I'm removing to a plain tablecloth to make a whole separate one, so nothing is wasted. I've made a start.



I can sell the strips of dragons and griffins and someone else can do it themselves.

sister_raphael: (chocolate)


Trying to do other jobs but my sick kitty requires me to stay on the couch with her, (or she won't rest) so a little sewing on a cote which I had no plans to do anytime soon.
sister_raphael: (home)


Not that I'll be doing anything with it soon (another project has priority) but please enjoy this lovely blue washed and dried in my living room! It will be for an early 14th century cote for me, since I'm up a clothing size and have limited reenactment clothing options which aren't a surcote.
sister_raphael: (scissors)

For those who asked what the underneath of my hood laid work looked like... here you go!

Couching with brown wool on a pumpkin-coloured wool hood. Stitching with cotton thread underneath. 
The straight lines are embroidered on, but I hadn't added the scallops. Design from the Romance of Alexander.

sister_raphael: (scissors)


While I'm home sick with covid this week, I'll share photos of the hood glow up that I took a few days ago.

Here I'm using a stab stitch to better secure the lining into the hood outer.

Hood fix

20 July 2025 12:09 pm
sister_raphael: (chocolate)

I bought a little hood for my nephew which was too small for him. Luckily, it fitted my niece perfectly!  It was lovely, except the daggues at the front were mismatched right in the centre! Right. In. The. Centre

What to do?

I didn't make it and didn't have offcuts... here's my fix!

Step 1. Trim the liripipe and sew it closed again.
Step 2. Trace around the design, and from the fabric offcut, cut a pattern to match the others!
Step 3. Pin and sew the new decoration in place.

It's not perfect, and I wish this wasn't right in the middle at the front, but it's acceptable. The daggues aren't especially well-shaped and after a wear or two may fray a bit by the looks of them, so when they do, I'll just trim them off altogether and add some groovy scalloped embroidery or something!


sister_raphael: (boobies)


For those who asked about the cloak brooches...

on the reverse side of the wool, I have cut two circles and stitched them on, so when I sewed the brooches themselves on the right side, the fabric has a little extra support and it's practically invisible!

The front seams are using the selvedge and don't need hemming and at the top you can see where I made a little loop in the neck reinforcing so if I choose, I can use it with brooches removed.


sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
A Waiting-for-pizza-to-arrive job. What’s on the menu? Spicy veg with jalapinos for me and bbq meatlovers for Gummibear. (Okay, it's for me, but she gets a lot of the ham and sausage and her little kitty heart would break if I didn't get pizza I can share with her.) This is the blue cloak which is hastily replacing the leaf green one; it of the nine holes. The neckline is cut and pinned and now just the hand-stitching while we watch a movie and eat pizza. Not a bad way to spend an evening.
sister_raphael: (notthebestnews)


Progress is hard when you've made sad discoveries about the thing you're working on. It kind of takes the will to do nice work and finish it.

I'm now sewing like mad on a green cloak. I unpicked the machine stitching to hand sew it and have discovered 9 tiny holes in the fabric. I knew it was recycled wool when I bought it, but hadn't seen all the holes until I started draping it and sewing on it, so now I'm sad that I paid a good price for a cloak that has holes in it already. 

A while back I bought a recycled wool cloak which was machine stitched with the view of re sewing it by hand. Half was completed and as I'm sewing I've found 9 very small holes which weren't apparent on first inspection.

So much for putting fancy brooches on it and being a fancy mantle. I guess it's to be darned and now a "worst" cloak. I helped a friend sell a bunch of other ones, so now I'm really worried that their cloaks may have teeny holes too. 

I could have left it machined and used it for a loan cloak if I had have noticed sooner, and it's been stored in an air tight container, so they aren't new holes. One darned spot I could have hidden, but 9!! Very sad.

And yes, if they were that small, what's the big deal? Small holes become tears and bigger holes. Since I didn't make it, I have no threads I can use to darn with, just some fuzz where I've trimmed the inside seams which I can possible needle felt later on. 

Sigh.


I had plans to put fancy jewelled brooches on it but I won't bother now, and it's already been dropped down to Not A Good Cloak already before it's even finished.



sister_raphael: (scissors)
I've finished the grey hood except the buttons and buttonholes, but since they can be worn open anyway, that's it for now.

The liripipe (tail) is stitched on and I'm pretty pleased with it. It's a little patchy looking in some lights because the wool cloth was secondhand to start with. I'm still very happy with it.

I'll be giving it a really good wash to try and even out the dye, but that may or may not help. See how we go.


sister_raphael: (underconstruction)


Another small job before the next event!

I bought this leaf green wool cloak which will be re stitched by hand, but I also will be sewing these jewelled brooches onto it. I had a mustard cloak I was going to use but it seemed like too much brown. Green is better, yes?

The brooches themselves were a very generous gift, and I absolutely can't believe they are for me! Here's what they will look like on the cloak:




sister_raphael: (scissors)


A few people have asked what my stitching, the stab and flat fell, look like on the right side. This is what it looks like unwashed and unironed, which tends to make the sewing disappear just that little bit more. It shouldn't be done in a contrasting colour to decorate or pretty it up. Stitches were not a pretty feature.
sister_raphael: (chocolate)
I know I should be doing a multitude of other things, but while I was sorting out some clothing for my sister's kids to wear to the big medieval event of the year, I thought that it might be nice to adjust some things I bought earlier in the year- a green wool, hedeby style hood and a generic leaf green cloak.

Both have aspects which aren't correct, historically, and the plan always was to use the wool and upgrade them when I had time in the future for use in my century, even if they aren't quite right for that. Extant items have gores in some of the same places, but smaller.

Since they were out and I had a movie on and didn't want to tackle anything really big, I started unpicking the machine-finished seams with a view to seeing how much work there was to upgrading sooner rather than later. So now those are on the potential horizon. I still have a number of other jobs to do before Abbey Medieval Festival but maybe the green hood will become my next work lunchtime sewing project after I finish the grey hood.

I'm still finishing the Polish kontusz which is so very, very long overdue but MUST be done by July, (and would be a surprise for next weekend if I could manage it.)

I have a lot of social media to do for my publisher, and have been slowed down with cleaning for house inspections and falling off a ladder which resulted in a lot of swelling and pain but no broken bones or internal organ injury according to the X-Rays and CT scan I had in Emergency.

It's bitterly cold here at the moment and my little kitty has become a heater hog. Wherever it is, so she goes. I can't afford to have it on all the time, of course, and usually it's just to warm up the space before bed, but I've had it on a number of times through the day while I sew. Other times working with a hot water bottle on my lap seems to be nice.

sister_raphael: (supercute)


The little linen early 14th century gowne is finished.

I stayed up late and after completing the side seams and hem, pinned in the reinforcing strip around the neck, stitched it into place and made two little eyelets for a brooch closure. I'm very happy with it.

I have cut a gore for the back of the gowne, but since it's being worn by a slender young lady in a few months, I feel it isn't really needed. Before I was it, I will split up the back and put the gore in, as the amount of growing likely to happen before next year and the next wear will be substantial. The extra gore will make a nice flow over her shape, whereas this year, the young lady is still quite slender.

Anyway, it's finished, and I'll post up a photo of it soonish.

sister_raphael: (underconstruction)


More simple running stitching makes for a boring photo, but it gets things done!

A question in this week about the lines of stitching often seen on the outside of medieval re-enactors' clothing. It's not decorative, it's the reverse of the seam being stitched down.

Whether you fold an extra time to encase the raw edge, or not, you will see a faint line on the good side. Two lines indicate wool or a thicker fabric where the seam is opened and laid flat before stitching down.


My photo shows the seam in progress, unironed, with the stitching almost invisible from the good side. Stitching seams down affects the drape of the garment, as overlocked seams encourage the fabric to fold inwards along the seams whereas stitched down seams encourage the fabric to continue the flow of the fabric.

Later this week, stitching a hem! Who knew sewing was THIS exciting?! 😅

sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
Marking out some decorative daggues on the bottom of a man's surcote. Time consuming, but the result will be worth it!

and here's the finished result...


Fur fun!

9 May 2025 12:08 pm
sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
I've been waiting for some fake fur to arrive for a surcote I'm giving a glow up, and it's arrived! It looks very promising!



I ordered from Temu and wasn't terribly hopeful, but quite a bit of their "high quality" crafting pieces are genuinely that... high quality. The thin strips I'm going to be using for the edges of the surcote are indeed just like actual rabbit and I'm very impressed. Some other stuff I got in a wider width for the hems is quite okay but not the same quality. It's pretty good for hems anyway, which will be dragged through the dust and the mud, so I'm happy with that. I may give it a very slight overdye to take the brightness from it so it matches the other fur.

The surcote it's to go on is wool from France, and a beautiful wine colour!

sister_raphael: (casualfriday)

I bought a surcote! Yes, I did!

Just because I sew doesn't mean I can't buy something from a friend!

I love the French wool quality and colour. It's hand finished though I will hand finish all the inside seams and it will receive a fur trim glow up with some jewelled buttons or band down the front.

Some people feel I shouldn't buy stuff because I make my own, but that's just silly! Look at this wool! Just look at it!

Stay tuned for glow-up!

sister_raphael: (homesweethome)

Down where the water lilies grow, wearing my sand wool surcote for the first time!

Another photo from AROW, one of the very few which is usable. My thanks to my friend Nigel for taking this one.

sister_raphael: (casualfriday)

Today at Phoenix Phestival I showed my friend Annette how to make this great new look for herself!

We didn't have everything we needed, but we both love the result!

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