sister_raphael: (supercute)


The little linen early 14th century gowne is finished.

I stayed up late and after completing the side seams and hem, pinned in the reinforcing strip around the neck, stitched it into place and made two little eyelets for a brooch closure. I'm very happy with it.

I have cut a gore for the back of the gowne, but since it's being worn by a slender young lady in a few months, I feel it isn't really needed. Before I was it, I will split up the back and put the gore in, as the amount of growing likely to happen before next year and the next wear will be substantial. The extra gore will make a nice flow over her shape, whereas this year, the young lady is still quite slender.

Anyway, it's finished, and I'll post up a photo of it soonish.

sister_raphael: (underconstruction)


More simple running stitching makes for a boring photo, but it gets things done!

A question in this week about the lines of stitching often seen on the outside of medieval re-enactors' clothing. It's not decorative, it's the reverse of the seam being stitched down.

Whether you fold an extra time to encase the raw edge, or not, you will see a faint line on the good side. Two lines indicate wool or a thicker fabric where the seam is opened and laid flat before stitching down.


My photo shows the seam in progress, unironed, with the stitching almost invisible from the good side. Stitching seams down affects the drape of the garment, as overlocked seams encourage the fabric to fold inwards along the seams whereas stitched down seams encourage the fabric to continue the flow of the fabric.

Later this week, stitching a hem! Who knew sewing was THIS exciting?! 😅

sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
Marking out some decorative daggues on the bottom of a man's surcote. Time consuming, but the result will be worth it!

and here's the finished result...


Fur fun!

9 May 2025 12:08 pm
sister_raphael: (underconstruction)
I've been waiting for some fake fur to arrive for a surcote I'm giving a glow up, and it's arrived! It looks very promising!



I ordered from Temu and wasn't terribly hopeful, but quite a bit of their "high quality" crafting pieces are genuinely that... high quality. The thin strips I'm going to be using for the edges of the surcote are indeed just like actual rabbit and I'm very impressed. Some other stuff I got in a wider width for the hems is quite okay but not the same quality. It's pretty good for hems anyway, which will be dragged through the dust and the mud, so I'm happy with that. I may give it a very slight overdye to take the brightness from it so it matches the other fur.

The surcote it's to go on is wool from France, and a beautiful wine colour!

sister_raphael: (casualfriday)

I bought a surcote! Yes, I did!

Just because I sew doesn't mean I can't buy something from a friend!

I love the French wool quality and colour. It's hand finished though I will hand finish all the inside seams and it will receive a fur trim glow up with some jewelled buttons or band down the front.

Some people feel I shouldn't buy stuff because I make my own, but that's just silly! Look at this wool! Just look at it!

Stay tuned for glow-up!

sister_raphael: (homesweethome)

Down where the water lilies grow, wearing my sand wool surcote for the first time!

Another photo from AROW, one of the very few which is usable. My thanks to my friend Nigel for taking this one.

sister_raphael: (casualfriday)

Today at Phoenix Phestival I showed my friend Annette how to make this great new look for herself!

We didn't have everything we needed, but we both love the result!
sister_raphael: (underconstruction)


The start of something squirrely for Ex Libris Living History !

I really didn't want to make a group banner, and you may remember I painted a group shield for processions, but the other couple of members are very much hoping for one, so I gathered some fabric and had a bit of a think with Vikki, my co-plotter, about how we could do this when I'm so time poor at the moment.

My first thought was a silk banner with our shield squirrel painted on, and I had two types of silk I could use, but I really didn't want to use real silk if I was unsure of the results, so I considered wool.

I had some left over double sided wool in gold and pale cream, so that was an option.

As for the squirrel itself, I was online shopping when I came across what looked like embroidered wool squirrel cushions. There were a number of poses but one more suitable than the others, so I ordered a couple. Why a couple? Potentially, the young man with the banner will have a surcote also. The cushion covers arrived and I was gutted to discover the embroidery was printed on. After a short while and several long, hard stares, it was apparent that unless one was standing extremely closely, it wasn't obviously a print.

I placed it on the fabric and took a photo from standing height. This is the result:


My nefarious plan from this point is to applique the squirrel carefully so the black doesn't show, and them add some nice couching as well.

I think it'll do the job it needs to.
sister_raphael: (underconstruction)

The conundrum.

To add buttons to a sleeve, limiting its use as an under kirtle garment, or making it a better over kirtle and under surcote garment? 14th century problems. What I really might do is add that Holkham Bible embroidery, so it is suited to being an over kirtle rather than an under one perhaps?

So undecided.
sister_raphael: (sewmuchtodo)

Slowly slowly. The neckline has two rows of stitching now and I'm sewing the sleeves on. it really is the loveliest wool to work with and I really am a bit in love with it.

sister_raphael: (highfive)

I had a little down time last night so I pinned the linen reinforcing strip to the inside of my new, sand coloured surcote, and since the movie wasn't quite finished, I started sewing it in.

I'm using a stab stitch for a firm result, and I did manage to complete both the top and the bottom. The strip itself has the raw ends folded underneath, making it neat and since it goes around, it provides extra stability over the shoulder seams.


sister_raphael: (sewmuchtodo)
I've made some good progress on my next kirtle brought about by needing a bigger size. The back and side gores are finished, and the side seams are partly done.


The neck is cut and a small linen facing strip is pinned in place.


I haven't put the sleeves on yet to allow better access to the neck, but I'll make a start  sometime this week.

So far so good, though, and the fabric is great to work with. Nice and light! 
sister_raphael: (deardiary)
I've been redoing the photos for some of my sewing galleries.



The ones for my own medieval clothes now have blue backgrounds with my Crowned R logo at the left hand at the top, and an accompanying image from a manuscript or painting. You can't quite see the three little dots on the surcote of the lady in the picture, but it's quite a common design.



The dress accessories and things I've sewn for other people are on clear backgrounds along with a watermarked Crowned R and picture as well. I really love the clean, clear look of the white background, but the dark blue backgrounds of the others look pretty nice too! I originally planned to do everything on the blue backgrounds, but for now, the clear ones are quick and easy, and I may go back later on and do the blue. Or maybe I should have stuck to the clear.

I plan to do my entire medieval inventory with the logo just because it's fun, but it's a lot of photos. At the moment, they have white backgrounds, so it would be easier and faster.

I really should be working on other things, but sometimes I just need to turn my brain off and do something else and I do love fiddling around with my website, and the entire inventory and galleries are online so I can find them when I'm out and about on my phone.

Once they're all done, I can upload them, hopefully in the next few days.

sister_raphael: (Default)

I've started on my next project already, but looking at the finished surcote I can't help feeling it would benefit from some Holkham Bible decoration. I absolutely love the geometric designs.I think there may be an issue though. I've seen them on gownes for women, and on overgownes for men and even what looks like cloaks, but... at this stage, not on any of the women's surcotes. They're all plain.


I've had a pretty thorough look and not a surcote. I am, however, making a gowne/kirtle in a colour that is represented which has red embroidered pattern, so that really may be what I do! I'm not a huge fan of red on woad blue, but it's not all about my modern ideas of fashion, it it?

sister_raphael: (scissors)


Even though it's not a new kirtle, some people asked about the buttoned sleeves with the front lacing. This is why. See that ridge right down the front of my surcote that no one mentioned to me for an entire weekend? This happens.

Many kirtles were worn under surcotes and manuscripts with the buttoned arms showing. The first time I wore a kirtle with buttons down the front under a surcote, I had a terrible case of "button boob"... a ridge right down the front where the buttons were! 

We know gownes and kirtles might be laced either at the front or side, so to me it made sense that some of my kirtles should have lacing, especially if I intended to wear them as an under layer.

At this time it wasn't the fashion to have a contrasting lace. The lacing was supposed to be invisible and disappear into the dress like those concealed zips in the dresses we use today. Towards the 15th century as the Italian fashions became popular, gowns were cut smaller across the breast to expose the pleated chemise and dresses had fancier, visible lacing rings and contrasting lacings designed to be seen. Hello, Renaissance fashion!
sister_raphael: (scissors)

I made this checked woolen kirtle a while back based on fabric from the 14th century London finds, but it had pewter buttons on it which I'd taken of a pink kirtle which I hadn't worn for some time. When I sold the pink kirtle, I needed to replace the buttons and it left this kirtle buttonless!

I'm so pleased that my friends at Keystone Forge have made some based on originals in my collection, and today I finally found the time to sit down in front of a movie and sew these new ones on. I'm really happy with how they look!

Lots of people do ask about checked fabric in England, so I'll leave you with this image from the Museum of London Textiles and Clothing book which has a gorgeous one!



sister_raphael: (scissors)


The wool surcote made with the double-sided wool is coming along nicely! I've managed to get a lot of it finished, though I still might add an extra gore in the front. I have enough fabric and many of the extant ones do. Sewing the edges of the gore. I have discovered over the years the sewing the edges first of thicker wool is easier, but absolutely not stronger than a good old-fashioned stab stitch. I still sew the pieces together first if it's a really thin wool.

I've checked the back gore before sewing the edges and pinning it in. This will be a bit tailored around the body and have high armholes to keep me warm. I've learned that when sewing large wool pieces, it works well to sew each piece then stitch together after. It's not as strong as sewing the pieces together first, but on over-garments, it works fine.

Here's the back gore placed and ready to stitch in!

I'm very happy with how this is progressing!

sister_raphael: (scissors)

I've had this gorgeous wool for some time now. It's double sided, so it's this beautiful tan on one side and a creamy oatmeal on the other. I bought plenty, as my plans were a matching hood and surcote, neither of which are to be lined since the contrasting colours seen in medieval manuscripts will be reproduced without.

Today I cut the surcote out, with side and a back gore and set about making a start on sewing the back gore in. 

I've got other things to finish before starting a new project, but I'm feeling motivated, and enjoying it, so... I just want to work on something mindless that makes me happy. 

sister_raphael: (scissors)

These little green peas are all attached now and looking great!

I have a BUTTON MAKING TUTORIAL here if anyone should need it.

I've done this as a workshop a number of times with members of the public. It's always fun, and people have come up with the novel uses for their buttons! Re-enactors want to use them for clothing, some public also want to do this, but others have fun ideas like 3D frog's eyes on sock puppets, on a purse for decoration, to jazz up a Xmas jumper with a tree on it (they were going to add them where the baubles were printed on to make them stand out!) Anyway, for a fun craft idea, think outside the box and they could be almost anything!

And here they are in place!


sister_raphael: (scissors)

Buttonholes progressing slowly but surely! I've placed them as close to the edge of the sleeve, which is where they should be for correct 14th century tailoring.

If you're interested in how I make my buttonholes by hand, I have an online tutorial on my website which is all pictures- no video- so if you'd like to have a go, you won't need to pause anything while you're figuring it out, and, better yet, no ads.

Buttonhole Making Tutorial

Personally, I am not a fan of button holes. I'd much rather make an eyelet lacing hole any day! I just love them!

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