Glow up buttons!
21 July 2025 11:59 am
Another small glow up job!
Replacing and moving the buttons on a bought hood before stitching the lining in around the edges. It's a more modern thing to have the buttons set in from the edge like the hood had here. Medieval clothing seems to be very much a buttons-on-the-edge, looking at extent samples, such as we have them.
A final over-dye to tone down the colours just a touch will be the final step, but for now... the buttons!
Reinforcements!
28 June 2025 10:04 am
For those who asked about the cloak brooches...
on the reverse side of the wool, I have cut two circles and stitched them on, so when I sewed the brooches themselves on the right side, the fabric has a little extra support and it's practically invisible!
The front seams are using the selvedge and don't need hemming and at the top you can see where I made a little loop in the neck reinforcing so if I choose, I can use it with brooches removed.
From Green to Blue
25 June 2025 04:49 pm
Green cloak update! From green to blue!
Change of plan! I have other, more urgent things to do before I have time to fix the 9 little holes on my new green cloak which I asked for help with this week, but yesterday a friend alerted me to Reverse Garbage which had an enormous amount of blue wool curtains.
I now have 19 metres of wool tent lining, which will have the trio of white dots added (but not for this event), this beautiful long semi-circular mantle and loads left for curtains or other things!
Timewise, this one is just a neckline reinforcing and brooches sewn on and it's finished! No long inside seams to join or sew flat. I'll wear it unhemmed and see how it goes. The selvedge runs up the front sides, so that doesn't need hemming. Best of all, my Lorifactor brooches look amazing on it!!!! The green cloak can just be mended later and patching or felting or darning just won't matter as much!
Progress is hard.
22 June 2025 09:32 pm
Progress is hard when you've made sad discoveries about the thing you're working on. It kind of takes the will to do nice work and finish it.
I'm now sewing like mad on a green cloak. I unpicked the machine stitching to hand sew it and have discovered 9 tiny holes in the fabric. I knew it was recycled wool when I bought it, but hadn't seen all the holes until I started draping it and sewing on it, so now I'm sad that I paid a good price for a cloak that has holes in it already.
A while back I bought a recycled wool cloak which was machine stitched with the view of re sewing it by hand. Half was completed and as I'm sewing I've found 9 very small holes which weren't apparent on first inspection.
So much for putting fancy brooches on it and being a fancy mantle. I guess it's to be darned and now a "worst" cloak. I helped a friend sell a bunch of other ones, so now I'm really worried that their cloaks may have teeny holes too.
I could have left it machined and used it for a loan cloak if I had have noticed sooner, and it's been stored in an air tight container, so they aren't new holes. One darned spot I could have hidden, but 9!! Very sad.
And yes, if they were that small, what's the big deal? Small holes become tears and bigger holes. Since I didn't make it, I have no threads I can use to darn with, just some fuzz where I've trimmed the inside seams which I can possible needle felt later on.
Sigh.
I had plans to put fancy jewelled brooches on it but I won't bother now, and it's already been dropped down to Not A Good Cloak already before it's even finished.
Wool hood progress.
21 June 2025 09:34 pm
I've finished the grey hood except the buttons and buttonholes, but since they can be worn open anyway, that's it for now. The liripipe (tail) is stitched on and I'm pretty pleased with it. It's a little patchy looking in some lights because the wool cloth was secondhand to start with. I'm still very happy with it.
I'll be giving it a really good wash to try and even out the dye, but that may or may not help. See how we go.
Brooch bling!
17 June 2025 10:39 am
Another small job before the next event!
I bought this leaf green wool cloak which will be re stitched by hand, but I also will be sewing these jewelled brooches onto it. I had a mustard cloak I was going to use but it seemed like too much brown. Green is better, yes?
The brooches themselves were a very generous gift, and I absolutely can't believe they are for me! Here's what they will look like on the cloak:


A few people have asked what my stitching, the stab and flat fell, look like on the right side. This is what it looks like unwashed and unironed, which tends to make the sewing disappear just that little bit more. It shouldn't be done in a contrasting colour to decorate or pretty it up. Stitches were not a pretty feature.

More simple running stitching makes for a boring photo, but it gets things done!
A question in this week about the lines of stitching often seen on the outside of medieval re-enactors' clothing. It's not decorative, it's the reverse of the seam being stitched down.
Whether you fold an extra time to encase the raw edge, or not, you will see a faint line on the good side. Two lines indicate wool or a thicker fabric where the seam is opened and laid flat before stitching down.

My photo shows the seam in progress, unironed, with the stitching almost invisible from the good side. Stitching seams down affects the drape of the garment, as overlocked seams encourage the fabric to fold inwards along the seams whereas stitched down seams encourage the fabric to continue the flow of the fabric.
Later this week, stitching a hem! Who knew sewing was THIS exciting?!
I've been waiting for some fake fur to arrive for a surcote I'm giving a glow up, and it's arrived! It looks very promising!

I ordered from Temu and wasn't terribly hopeful, but quite a bit of their "high quality" crafting pieces are genuinely that... high quality. The thin strips I'm going to be using for the edges of the surcote are indeed just like actual rabbit and I'm very impressed. Some other stuff I got in a wider width for the hems is quite okay but not the same quality. It's pretty good for hems anyway, which will be dragged through the dust and the mud, so I'm happy with that. I may give it a very slight overdye to take the brightness from it so it matches the other fur.
The surcote it's to go on is wool from France, and a beautiful wine colour!

I ordered from Temu and wasn't terribly hopeful, but quite a bit of their "high quality" crafting pieces are genuinely that... high quality. The thin strips I'm going to be using for the edges of the surcote are indeed just like actual rabbit and I'm very impressed. Some other stuff I got in a wider width for the hems is quite okay but not the same quality. It's pretty good for hems anyway, which will be dragged through the dust and the mud, so I'm happy with that. I may give it a very slight overdye to take the brightness from it so it matches the other fur.
The surcote it's to go on is wool from France, and a beautiful wine colour!
Surcote neck reinforced
30 January 2025 11:55 am
I had a little down time last night so I pinned the linen reinforcing strip to the inside of my new, sand coloured surcote, and since the movie wasn't quite finished, I started sewing it in.
I'm using a stab stitch for a firm result, and I did manage to complete both the top and the bottom. The strip itself has the raw ends folded underneath, making it neat and since it goes around, it provides extra stability over the shoulder seams.
New kirtle progress
28 January 2025 04:12 pmI've made some good progress on my next kirtle brought about by needing a bigger size. The back and side gores are finished, and the side seams are partly done.

The neck is cut and a small linen facing strip is pinned in place.

I haven't put the sleeves on yet to allow better access to the neck, but I'll make a start sometime this week.
So far so good, though, and the fabric is great to work with. Nice and light!

The neck is cut and a small linen facing strip is pinned in place.

I haven't put the sleeves on yet to allow better access to the neck, but I'll make a start sometime this week.
So far so good, though, and the fabric is great to work with. Nice and light!

I've started on my next project already, but looking at the finished surcote I can't help feeling it would benefit from some Holkham Bible decoration. I absolutely love the geometric designs.I think there may be an issue though. I've seen them on gownes for women, and on overgownes for men and even what looks like cloaks, but... at this stage, not on any of the women's surcotes. They're all plain.

I've had a pretty thorough look and not a surcote. I am, however, making a gowne/kirtle in a colour that is represented which has red embroidered pattern, so that really may be what I do! I'm not a huge fan of red on woad blue, but it's not all about my modern ideas of fashion, it it?
Laced medieval kirtles.
15 January 2025 06:59 am
Even though it's not a new kirtle, some people asked about the buttoned sleeves with the front lacing. This is why. See that ridge right down the front of my surcote that no one mentioned to me for an entire weekend? This happens.
Many kirtles were worn under surcotes and manuscripts with the buttoned arms showing. The first time I wore a kirtle with buttons down the front under a surcote, I had a terrible case of "button boob"... a ridge right down the front where the buttons were!
We know gownes and kirtles might be laced either at the front or side, so to me it made sense that some of my kirtles should have lacing, especially if I intended to wear them as an under layer.
At this time it wasn't the fashion to have a contrasting lace. The lacing was supposed to be invisible and disappear into the dress like those concealed zips in the dresses we use today. Towards the 15th century as the Italian fashions became popular, gowns were cut smaller across the breast to expose the pleated chemise and dresses had fancier, visible lacing rings and contrasting lacings designed to be seen. Hello, Renaissance fashion!







