Laced medieval kirtles.

[sister_raphael]

Even though it's not a new kirtle, some people asked about the buttoned sleeves with the front lacing. This is why. See that ridge right down the front of my surcote that no one mentioned to me for an entire weekend? This happens.

Many kirtles were worn under surcotes and manuscripts with the buttoned arms showing. The first time I wore a kirtle with buttons down the front under a surcote, I had a terrible case of "button boob"... a ridge right down the front where the buttons were! 

We know gownes and kirtles might be laced either at the front or side, so to me it made sense that some of my kirtles should have lacing, especially if I intended to wear them as an under layer.

At this time it wasn't the fashion to have a contrasting lace. The lacing was supposed to be invisible and disappear into the dress like those concealed zips in the dresses we use today. Towards the 15th century as the Italian fashions became popular, gowns were cut smaller across the breast to expose the pleated chemise and dresses had fancier, visible lacing rings and contrasting lacings designed to be seen. Hello, Renaissance fashion!