sister_raphael: (scissors)


I have been umming and ahhing about a couple of silk projects which haven't happened because of the sheer cost of the fabric. It used to be that shops routinely sold smooth silk AND slubby natural silk and both were dear, but not so bad when a sale was on. Other colours could be bought a bit more expensively online. Almost always, the really amazing colours are definitely not on special as they're popular for weddings or bridesmaid dresses. No specials there.

Having watched the skyrocketing cost of silk fabric in a weight I like, I have been dismayed to see that all the good silk has disappeared from most shops and only the slubby stuff remains and it's not cheap either.

A local fabric store which has beautiful high end silk and satin for weddings has often had the red berry silk that I've wanted for years (since my particolour over 10 years ago) but I noted with sadness that even that is not in stock.

Anyway, I did see a pretty ice blue online at their shop which was 150cm wide, meaning I'd need a lot less fabric overall to make the gowne I had in mind for it. I finally went to the shop after work (tricky in itself due to the hours I work) and found it. The pictures online matched exactly, so to the counter I went about to pay full price for silk and sad about it.

Sign at the counter: 20% off store wide! 

Heart happiness! Then disaster. The red was there. Right there. So there was the dilemma. 20% off $87.00 a metre is a big saving but... which colour to get? The ice blue is beyond stunning to go with the new spotty surcote. The red has been on my wish list and hasn't been available in that shade in that weight for years. 

It really hurt my feelings to pay for both, but I did. Thankfully, I had some book money to pay for it, but I had other plans, like saving it. 

Anyway, that's everything ticked off my fabric and project list. I have existing fabric set aside for everything I want to make- upgrades and new projects. And I got $160.00 off my purchase, which, quite frankly is normally what I would pay for on-sale fabric. And I guess it's only going to get more expensive the longer I leave it. I can also sell a bunch of medieval clothes which I don't wear anymore too. 

But still. *sighs heavily* Not a purchase I wanted to make this week. 
sister_raphael: (sewmuchtodo)


Work in Progress! I'm just so excited about this!

You may remember that I bought this silk last year to make an early 14th century surcote- one with high armholes and a round, gold collar like the ones we see in the Manesse Codex and in this instance, a French manuscript, the Biblia Porta.  I've cut and sewn the outer and both sides, but have the gores to add yet to the front and back. I've cut this very pretty lightweight silk lining too:



I'm hoping the end result will be rather striking, even though the wine colour will only be seen when I gather the surcote up to walk or when sitting.

I have the gold silk for the collar, from the pattern of a great 1970's sundress but will make a test piece just in case I mess it up. Ideally, I'd like to cut it in one piece around and a second piece for the lining, but if my silk scraps don't allow that, then I'll piece it.

In the image from the manuscript, the lady is wearing a mushroom pink gown underneath, and I do have my Ham-coloured kirtle almost finished, but I'd need to not do buttons all the way up the arms and down the front as that's definitely a later 14th century style. Buttons down the front gives a ridge down the front over the buttons too, which spoils the look.

Of course, I could just buy more silk for an undergown. I already have the woad blue one, but I would like a second one to go underneath and be worn as a stand-alone dress. I have wool, but in darker colours, which isn't suitable. Since the Ham kirtle isn't finished, I could actually take the reinforcing strips off the sleeves and front and just sew them closed which would make them suitable. But I do love the heavily buttoned kirtles, so I can't bare to do that!

Maybe I'll just use the Ham kirtle for carefully made photos to match the manuscript picture but wear silk the rest of the time at events. I've signed up to the mailing list of a shop that has the best array of most gorgeous silks which are so very expensive. I'm hoping for a sale, but they do have a rather stunning pale blue in stock which is absolutely a colour I look nice in, so there's that to consider.

Anyway, stay tuned. Lot's of other projects on the go too, but the collar needs to be sorted and while I'm thinking about that, there's the gores and the lining to make.

Hand sewing is so slow.



sister_raphael: (supercute)

Finally the dark, blue silk kirtle is finished. The front buttonholes are finished, stitched by hand with silk thread, and the pewter buttons set with red stones are on. This dress will be worn as an overdress so the sleeves of the gown underneath can be seen. Of course, the tippets are the finishing touch, and are white silk too, so they'll flutter as I walk!

I'm really looking forward to having some nice photos taken in this with the silver hip belt and circlet. Blue and silver. mmmmm!

sister_raphael: (supercute)


I think this has to be my favourite photo from this year so far. Taken from behind the castle after the Festival Opening Ceremony and waiting for the participants to arrive around the back for the Grand Parade so i can collect their bits and pieces from them.

Photo by Fiona Brown.

sister_raphael: (scissors)



I tried on my blue, silk kirtle, which was abandoned due to my weight gain, and was extremely pleased to find that it fits again, and the waist will need to be taken in for better shaping.

I need only now to do that and sew the buttonholes down both arms- roughly 25 per side, sew the buttons on and decide whether the front will be laced of buttons.

I love buttons, but laced sits better beneath surcotes, and I'm thinking of future wearing it under the bling surcote. I'm a bit undecided as I don't have a pretty kirtle to wear alone and there are others I can wear underneath if I choose.

The colour isn't quite as bright as it shows on the screen- it's more of a navy blue, but I am thinking a lot of the dye will come out on the first few washes and it will lighten to this colour in the end.

Blue, of course, is the colour we usually see the Virgin Mary, and was a hugely popular colour for medieval dresses. The colour is associated with virtue and it was easily dyed in a range of colours from woad.

sister_raphael: (scissors)


I'm making some bright blue silk flags for the opening ceremony also. These will attach to the Castle Guards spears to provide a festive feel. They'll also be wearing flower crowns, which I haven't told them about yet.

Won't that be nice?

sister_raphael: (tools)


I've been putting together a new (sort of new outfit) for a friend to wear at the next festival. You might recognise the reproduction brooch I had made, but probably not the wool surcote which is years old and has been shunned in favour of other surcotes of more exciting colours. You might not recognise the pearl-edged veil either, because it's been quite a while since that's been out too.

What is completely new is the silk fillet with the flowers made of freshwater pearls and carnelians. I made a bunch of these for the Circlet of Bling and had a couple over which I thought would be perfect for a silk fillet one day. That day was yesterday. The silk is simply folded over a linen base, the flowers spiked through the fabric, the spikes folded over and then the silk folded to cover and stitched down.



Here's a picture of the fillet inside out while I sew the seam down with tiny, little stitches.

I am pretty pleased with how this has come together.


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