sister_raphael | Cintamani Silk Surcote

Work in Progress! I'm just so excited about this!

You may remember that I bought this silk last year to make an early 14th century surcote- one with high armholes and a round, gold collar like the ones we see in the Manesse Codex and in this instance, a French manuscript, the Biblia Porta. I've cut and sewn the outer and both sides, but have the gores to add yet to the front and back. I've cut this very pretty lightweight silk lining too:

I'm hoping the end result will be rather striking, even though the wine colour will only be seen when I gather the surcote up to walk or when sitting.

I have the gold silk for the collar, from the pattern of a great 1970's sundress but will make a test piece just in case I mess it up. Ideally, I'd like to cut it in one piece around and a second piece for the lining, but if my silk scraps don't allow that, then I'll piece it.

In the image from the manuscript, the lady is wearing a mushroom pink gown underneath, and I do have my Ham-coloured kirtle almost finished, but I'd need to not do buttons all the way up the arms and down the front as that's definitely a later 14th century style. Buttons down the front gives a ridge down the front over the buttons too, which spoils the look.

Of course, I could just buy more silk for an undergown. I already have the woad blue one, but I would like a second one to go underneath and be worn as a stand-alone dress. I have wool, but in darker colours, which isn't suitable. Since the Ham kirtle isn't finished, I could actually take the reinforcing strips off the sleeves and front and just sew them closed which would make them suitable. But I do love the heavily buttoned kirtles, so I can't bare to do that!

Maybe I'll just use the Ham kirtle for carefully made photos to match the manuscript picture but wear silk the rest of the time at events. I've signed up to the mailing list of a shop that has the best array of most gorgeous silks which are so very expensive. I'm hoping for a sale, but they do have a rather stunning pale blue in stock which is absolutely a colour I look nice in, so there's that to consider.

Anyway, stay tuned. Lot's of other projects on the go too, but the collar needs to be sorted and while I'm thinking about that, there's the gores and the lining to make.

Hand sewing is so slow.