Sideless surcote fitting

Finally the new fabric arrived for the sideless surcote for Edith, and I was able to pattern it from the outer and machine the insides. The outer didn't look so great just machines as the seams really do sit differently when sewed down by hand, so I spent a few days doing that, with very pleasing results.

I was able to get up the the museum for a fitting of both that the the kirtle to go under it but sadly, it didn't really go well there. I had been working from a pattern from her last outfit and there had been changes in her shape since then, and even though I had allowed(what I thought) was planty of room to take the garments in, there really wasn't any spare room at all.

To make matters worse, the cut out sides of the surcote were nowhere near low enough, which normally wouldn't present too much of a problem, but of course, the appliqued A's which already had gold metal thread borders and details done were already in place and it was pretty obvious that cutting the sides too low would impact where they were. Also, if I have have put the A's lower, them they would be weirdly low on the garment itself, so that was also an issue.

Nevertheless, I marked out a heap of changes and as low as I dared to go without actually cutting into the A's.

photos to follow.

Emerald Green kirtle

As mentioned previously, trhe fitting did not go especially well. Where I had allowed a lot of fabric in the seams, it seemed that I hadn't, in spite of using the same pattern as last time and allowing a hefty amount so i could cut it in.

Only the back seam needed to come in quite a lot for shaping, which was perfectly fine.

The armholes didn't sit correctly and needed big adjustments, which took up so much extra time. I think I'm on the right track now, but it's a snug fit. The style of the kirtle means it's supposed to be a snug fit, but now I'm worried that the lady will tear it in her haste to undress rather than undoing the lacing right to the bottom and carefully wriggling out of it.

Time will tell, I guess.